The use of the corset became widespread during the 19th century. Even thinking about the feminine silhouette without this accessory was unimaginable at the time. Eight thousand workers lived his trade in France and, though criticisms of physicians towards this accessory in crescendo, use showed that this practice persisted due to the opulence and the overflow, the woman was obliged to keep under control your meats by the containment.
6 million sold corsets
The object in question was real passions. From 1828 to 1848 were sixty-four applications for patents and brands, designed that feels more comfortable. At the beginning of the 20th century still they recorded three to five applications each month. The production also ceased to grow. A million and a half of corsets were sold in 1870, and in 1900… ¡six million!
The first Visual advertising for the promotion of corsets date from 1901. In that year, Le Furet’s Capiello Leonetto model shows an image of a young woman wearing a corset, and a slogan that reads: “Provides the lightness of an oriental with the grace of a French!”
Despite the success of this garment slimming the figure, tweaking the waist, hiding the gut, and doing the chest and rear sobresaliesen, the corset was disappearing as fashion evolved, and that suits were sticking and closer to the body.
Returns the Empire style
At the beginning of the 20th century, around 1905, corsets that conform to refine the size and highlight the hips begin to be old-fashioned, because women begin to look suits that reminded of the Empire style, lot marking the breast, but not the waist.
Between the years 1910 and 1929, a genuine metamorphosis occurs: the lines get longer and there is a greater freedom of movement. Little by little the verticality is by imposing the androgynous silhouettes thanks to the first shirt suits made with fabric scarves.
The best example of this is the self-portrait by Clémentine-Hélène Dufau (1911). the artist painted in an oriental-inspired costume adorned with gold accessories and combed with a turban Emerald Turquoise. This feminist looks at us from the fabric with pride, conscious of the revolution that is encouraging, and which gave rise to the wave of Orientalism raised after the success of the ballet Scherezade.
Costumes used in the cities concealed forms of the body from head to toe and had a lace collar. It was a time in which the feathers of ostrich, extremely expensive, became fashionable in the form of marabou boas. Hair used to collect in a monkey and Hat are planted before looking for balance figure. Although it may seem otherwise, feminine clothing is much lighter than before, but the bodies were still being encorsetados.
The crazy twenties
In 1925 he was when, for the first time in the history of modern Europe, fashion dared to discover female knees. A real scandal. In the photo Single young at the Romanisches Café in Berlin the photographer (anonymous) shows the new type of woman who has just been born, trying to emancipate from their traditional status at the time that frees her legs.
In 1925 he was when, for the first time in the history of modern Europe, fashion dared to discover female knees. A real scandal.
Is also when women are encouraged to to la garçonne haircut as a symbol of emancipation: women become active and autonomous, go out, dance, smoke, perform outdoor sports, they drive cars, they travel; and also because it was impossible to get hats style campaign that started to make all the rage with long hair.
Dresses cut just making tubular, and waist down to the hips, giving rise to a androgynous silhouette and rangy, where already are not marked curves. The borders between the masculine and feminine costumes are blurred. The suit makes its appearance on the scene; shirt with collar and cuffs are also part of the female wardrobe.
Coco Chanel introduces the blazer in his 1926 collection. Nightgown is replaced by pajamas. Some women even dare to wear suit pants men accesorizado with tie or bow tie, Cufflinks, and bowler thus embodying a feminist subvervisa, sometimes lesbian.
Also comes the skirt which allowed to ride a bike, and the swimwear made in jersey. In 1924, Jean Patou launches its sportswear line, designing clothes for the famous tennis champion Suzanne Lenglen. In 1927, Elsa Schiaparelli launches a collection whose shirts wore drawn a bow tie trompe-l’oeil. Then the jersey happens to be used in costumes giving rise to fabrics with geometric prints in vivid colors in the purest style Art Déco. During the crazy 20 years, Coco Chanel is its best Ambassador both by the way they dress up as per your way of being.
At the end of the 1920s in Paris, there are already several maisons de couture including the of Jeanne Paquin and that of Coco Chanel, who were the first to conceive of fashion shows as artistic performances including dancing, music and a decorated as well as his fashion designs.
The war years
As we approach the end of the Decade, and war, the fashion industry lapses because you have to deal with the hardships of the textile industry. Colors become darker to the point that extravagant touches were considered as bad taste. Wool or flannel jackets used to wear double breasted and extremely marked shoulders. Most of the time were the result of coats that were cut for recycling.
During the 1940s, the war returns to again paralyse the fashion industry, and good fabrics conspicuous by their absence or are prohibitively expensive. This situation imposes a fashion of circumstances due to hardship: short skirt above the knee, shoulders square, sombreritos made with scraps fabrics or turbans, shoes with soles of wood or Cork. Women used to paint a false stripe on the back of the calf to make people believe that they had been placed silk stockings.
Dior introduced the New Look
In 1947, Christian Dior relaunches fashion to introduce its New Look which marked waist and advocated broad skirts under which used to use a cancan of tulle. As reaction to the New Look Coco Chanel launches its famous tailleur or suit jacket. Some men are beginning to use jeans.
Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne
The sixties marked the impulse of ready-to-wear. There are new materials with which to manufacture items such as plastic. Pierre Cardin creates costumes made of plastic and t-shirts made with vinyl grid. Courreges revolutionizes the fashion and Paco Rabanne created a metallic suit.
Skirts are shrinking until in 1962 the designer Mary Quant created the miniskirt presenting in London–whose paternity was disputed with André Courrèges. The cardigans and jackets are closed with a single button located near the neck. The prints more than fashion are stripes and polka dots. Chic accessories are the foulards, Diadems and turbans around the hair, and the fantasy-inspired futuristic sunglasses. The jewellery is all plastic with bright and vivid colors.
High boots, over the knee, are cutting edge. In 1963 Roger Vivier created the shoes with stiletto heel. At the end of 1965, the famous heel created by Salvatore Ferragamo yields his place to the square heel high or low. The feminine silhouette becomes geometric, without marking the waist or chest. Come dresses colors, color screens, hip belts, shorts, pants campaign, crocheted tops, raincoats in bright colours and the maxifalda. Its exponents are André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin.
The fashion of the seventies, with two monsters sacred like Saint Laurent and Givenchy, it deserves a mention apart. I challenge them to a future article that also we can review together what gave him Gaultier, Mugler, Montana and Alaia during the 80’s.