Au revoir, Paris . After nine days of parades the French Fashion Week closes by writing an end to the month of fashion started in February in New York .
This month has been dedicated to fashion a tortuous and fascinating journey through the lands of creativity and style. The fashion now takes a break in anticipation of the spring-summer 2017, taking leave from “glorious vestiges”, vintage postcards from Switzerland and “nobility and misery”.
The “glorious vestiges” of the past to today: Ghesquière
It’s not news that fashion looks to the past for an organic development of the style in the sign of continuity. In the Paris fashion shows, and even before New York, Milan and London ,though it seems that heritage, tradition have often taken over on innovation and missing a bit ‘to the designers the courage to break the mold.
Of course, the Alessandro Michele there is only one, albeit from a Nicolas Ghesquière, to give just one example, it is reasonable to expect more. As stylistically beautiful, sartorially impeccable and commercially perfect, the fall winter collection 2016-2017 Louis Vuitton is indeed stained by the “original sin” of having sacrificed the aesthetics of the homage to the designer’s philosophy .
Ghesquière said to have wanted to “unearth the glorious vestiges of a visionary creator of trunks” to “elaborate creations of yesterday according to the taste of today”, but the operation would have much more force if the talented designer had created the elements of rupture , bringing out their own style. Instead, structured jackets with sharp cuts, bodices that mark the bust and waist, the flowing dresses and the alternation of light and heavy materials, formal and informal, refer to the main elements Vuitton and in large part to the technique of overlapping Jean Paul Gaultier, as admitted by the designer himself. Her there is little, throughout a t-shirt with leather sleeves, and if you add the declared commercial aptitude of the look, sorry to say, but not enough to collect applause. In short, it is called Nicolas Ghesquière.
Among yodelling and atmosphere of “nobility and misery”: Valleys and Prada
In a day of great atmospheres creates a curious dissonant effect the proposal FW 2016-2017 designed by Giambattista Valli for Moncler Gamme Rouge. After enchanted with its “look perfect elegance” presented on the seventh day of fashion shows, the designer chooses the path of divertissement for the famous brand of down jackets. Drawing inspiration from the Swiss style, Valli plays with edelweiss, manufacturing and embroidery of the valley tradition and contrasting colors, to create a range of outerwear elegant and unconventional, unformal-chic sweaters and garments from the dreamy mood and carefree. The signature look of the collection? Hooves, available in bright colors and worn with pure white tights, shorts and dresses.
To close the long ride in the fashion biz through four cities, and especially through many eras and styles is Miuccia Prada, which for the women’s line Miu Miu Fall-Winter 2016-2017 opt for a young and relaxed mood. Prada draws on the aesthetics of Hollywood ’50s and suggestions of “nobility and misery”, where all that remains of the ancient glories are clothes. The result is a fluid collection, in which male and female, casual and elegance, romance and military mood, color and absence of color combine to give shape to dresses and long skirts (many), mini-dresses and shorts, jackets, coats and trench coats which are now sensual, now pragmatic. the most important innovation is the use of denim, which Miuccia available in a wide variety of animals, mixing it to “usual” fabrics such as brocade, the undisputed star of the upcoming season (Armani docet), that is, the velvet. But it is only part of the ‘incredible kaleidoscope led by the designer on the catwalk, which invites you to play with fashion without awe, by inserting in outfits that like the wardrobe of him or that of his grandmother.
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