The fashion house, which is in the French landscape since 1952, suffered more than one mutation. She knew including a classically bohemian Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney a refreshingly offbeat romanticism, a Phoebe Philo girly chic, and now a Paulo Melim Andersson conceptual strand… Despite these changes of style and art direction, will the Chloé label continues to persist. Story of a house that invented the ready-to-wear luxury…
Gaby Aghion is an Egyptian living in the Paris of the 50s, where the Christian Dior New Look occupies the stage … more or less rigid fabrics, structural cuts, Gaby Aghion who has the beauty of the southern land does not support these clothes that keep the body. She decided to draw flexible outfits in ultra thin materials, soft and comfortable to wear. That’s what she called the “ready-to-wear luxury.”
In 1965, in full time Courrèges, Gaby Aghion – now associated with Jacques Lenoir – the leap and decided to present their collection. They will do it where they used to converse at length: the coffee Flore … They appoint their Chloé label, name that evokes a young woman released and full of life. This image fits perfectly with the times, while preparing young May 68 and where taboos fly slowly apart.
But if Gaby Aghion was the impetus for this new feminine style and bolder, she prefers that those who draw the collections are more prochent target it seeks. She wants to be in line or slightly ahead of the desire of people, so early she is surrounded by young designers who definitely will seal the Chloé style.
One that will make the difference is a young designer who learned his trade at Jean Patou and from work freelance from Japan to Italy: Karl Lagerfeld at Chloé is hired on his return to France… In 1966, he takes reins of the house and make the preferred label of the stars of the time. Long skirts, gauzy blouses together bohemian chic, feminine and casual, the Chloé look really takes shape under the hands of Karl
However, he left his post in 1983, and after him succeed some stylists, including Martine Sitbon, but Chloe loses his fame: his style is aging and no longer sticks to the eighties generation. Sales collapsed, no one put on this dusty house. Yet in 1985, the brand was acquired by the Richemont group, which allows it to have international visibility. However nothing happens, and the dark house quickly …
It was not until 1991 that Karl Lagerfeld is called for help to reinvigorate the brand. After some trial and error for several more seasons, Chloe slowly up the slope, but it was not really until 1997 with the arrival of Stella McCartney that the house returns to its former glory. It is closely following the course of action of the creator of the brand (“working with young designers”), Chloe will find its salvation.
Stella McCartney was only 25, but the young woman in addition to a prestigious name has a real talent. Therefore it exits the Saint Martins School, Chloe leadership seized his chance to fly. Stella McCartney is propelled art direction, where it imposes a condition: to take her along his accomplice and partner, Phoebe Philo, it leaves more since they met at St Martins School. Stella, with her youth and freshness while preserving the soul of the brand, manages to make it rise from the ashes.
It reinterprets the heritage of Chloe spring antique lace, pastel colors and a new impetus made languorous and sexy rock romance … It draws the locker room of his mother, mixes vintage and modern cut, introduces the Hipster in the luxury and the works of casual tailoring: the first collection is a success, the Parisian house saw. Revenues flies, Chloe becomes bankable and reconciles with fashionistas.
However in 2001, Stella flies to other projects and gives way to that which was in shadow at his side: Phoebe Philo. This will tap into the roots of luxury home and adds a very personal vision of femininity, sensuality made, serenity and freedom. What she does not like anyone else, and this approach both sexy and sensible female cloakroom seduced clients.
She manages gradually to draw a new silhouette, with blurred and racy volumes. Its strength: focus link with client and chain them without denying collections, collections evolve and build on the foundations of the previous. With this approach to fashion, Phoebe Philo loyal clients, because if they know what their reserve next season, they also know that the style suits them.
Moreover, Phoebe Philo grasps the need for the sustainability of a house as Chloe, to achieve a line of accessories. So she developed a bag line, which it presents the flagship during his shows. This becomes the hallmark of the brand, and said bag alone represents the spirit of the season. Commercial success is the appointment: we remember the great enthusiasm that sparked the Paddington… The VIP also reconnect with Chloe, who becomes the must have of the hype attitude: Kirsten Dunst and Sofia Coppola are the first clients.
However, after Stella is around Phoebe Philo to leave the ship, which decides for a time to spend with family. What follows is a year without real artistic direction, creating three stylists staff developing two relatively disappointing collections. The old demons of claw lie in wait, it may again lose its aura…
But it was not counting on the arrival of Paulo Melim Andersson, formerly of Marni and ex Margiela. It could have been content to perpetuate the style sweet and seller had printed the duo McCartney / Philo, but nevertheless decided to turn the page and to subject Chloe yet another stylistic change. Its collections are thus more cerebral, less obvious, but once you enter you seized the charm and subtlety: the prints are inspired outfits “Evening” played between minimalist chic and insolent modernity…
The new line Chloe is strong and recognizable, and far from shocking the followers of the brand, the release Andersson was able to delight their hearts, Charlotte Casiraghi to Kylie Minogue, via Natalie Portman. Elegance by Chloe evolves over time and the designers take it by force, but always finds an echo.
It will also retain the quality of the second line of Chloe, “See by Chloe”, which was established in 2002 and since that distills a “beautiful trendy” style completely irresistible. Designed by the studio, these collections are the link between the main line and a luxurious feel more inclined, more urban, a younger clientele. With more accessible prices, the products “See by Chloe” are mixing the zeitgeist perfectly: the large jeans available this winter, is the perfect illustration…
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